early showers left the morning air warm and humid, ushering in the anticipated day with the sweet scent of spring. sleep crusted in the corners of our eyes, evidence of the weary veil that adorned our tired minds, and gradually we arose and readied ourselves for the adventure to come. morning greetings were exchanged in the small, country kitchen as the tv hummed softly in the background. antonio invited sarah and i to share in the traditional florentine morning celebrations of pasqua, an event that was more elaborate than my mind could have previously conceived. as we prepared to leave our apartment antonio left the tv turned on, moving pictures flashing repeatedly before an audience of none other than a couple of hard boiled eggs and wildflowers. curiously i asked the meaning of it all, and antonio laughed as he ushered us out the door. it turns out that italians traditionally boil eggs for easter morning, and gather them in a basket to take to catholic mass where the eggs will be blessed. this egg-blessing symbolizes blessings for the coming year, insuring health and provisions until the following pasqua season. antonio explained to us that he doesn't like going to church, but he needs his eggs to be blessed. so, naturally he and guia sit them in front of the tv with the channel tuned to a program that airs the benediction of the pope in vatican city. according to antonio it's a win-win situation: no church, yet plentiful blessings. we laughed. i love my host family.
as we arrived at the duomo, thousands of people lined the streets, blocked off by metal gates guarded by police and event staff. antonio hurried us along, escorting us down small streets and weaving between mobs of perfectly joyful and clueless tourists. all the while, whenever we encountered police or guards attempting to prevent our entrance he would say something in italian, move his arms and hands enthusiastically, and without further questioning we were granted access, and commanded to stay close. the whole process of getting into the area where all the festivities took place was whirlwind. at one moment we were standing at the side of the duomo, watching as clearly wealthy florentines boasting orange badges entered the forbidden area, greeted by smiling policemen, and the next moment, after some more hassling and additional hand gestures, antonio was directing us past the reluctant guards and in front of thousands of viewers crammed up against fence. we were in. i don't know who antonio is, or what kind of influence he has, or who he knows, but somehow he got us into prime viewing area! we were standing on the steps of the duomo, next to performers and other important people and families, while the parade, benediction, and fireworks display happened right before our eyes. it was amazing, and beautiful, and i knew in my heart that i would never experience anything like it in my life again!
antonio's friend.
benediction.
smoke display from the altar.
bambino in awe of fireworks.
when the celebrations ceased antonio took us out to cappuccinos and pastries and we chatted about the morning, all the while thanking him for all the stings he pulled to get us there. he smiled and shrugged his shoulders shyly, informing us that it was really nothing big at all. antonio (or papa tony, as i like to refer to him) is the m a n.
later we joined jacqueline, lauren and her mom, allison for easter brunch crepes at our favorite cafe, volume. there we sat for hours chatting, singing, and breaking open the giant chocolate eggs that our host family gave us for easter. we had way too much fun with the surprise top that was inside the egg, and realized that i get incredibly energetic and hyper when i drink coffee. good to know. allison gave all us girls surprise easter eggs as well, painted beautifully with watercolor, each with its own personal inscription on the back! she is so sweet, and we are so happy to enjoy her presence for the week.
that evening sarah and i went to catholic mass at a church near our home, santo spirito. it was beautifully decorated with easter lilies and bird f paradise flowers. although we really didn't understand all that was going on, it was very special to take part in such a significant service and feel somewhat connected to the culture around us.
after church we joined back up with the girls for dinner at one of our favorite restaurants, the nicest restaurant on our meal plan. we had made reservations earlier that afternoon, so we were seated right next to the live music! we enjoyed delicious food and fantastic company, the perfect ending to a wonderful day. buona pasqua!
live jazz.
fancy water.
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